Care Guide

Please read the following for instructions on how to care for your new rose. More information can be found here or you can contact us with questions.

DO NOT BE ALARMED:

Defoliation while in transit is expected and in some instances, leaves are removed from the plants prior to shipping. You may see yellowing of leaves, leaf debris in the bottom of the box or even black spot on leaves when unboxing. Simply remove damaged leaves from the plant as it will in no way jeopardize the performance of your rose and will sprout out again shortly.

UPON ARRIVAL:

  • Remove rose from all packing material and water if needed.
  • Keep the plastic rose tags for our guarantee purposes
  • Plant in full sun (at least 6 hours).
  • Do not hold the rose in the original pot for more than a month after arrival
  • Do not acclimate in the shade
  • Do not hold or grow roses indoors

PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS:

  • Select a location that receives AT LEAST 6 hours of FULL SUN with well draining soil
  • Dig a hole 12 to 18 inches in diameter
  • Remove the rose from the plastic container and plant the rose at the existing soil line
  • Add 2 to 3 inches of compost with soil
  • Water deeply every 2-3 days for two weeks to establish strong roots
  • Fertilize after rose is established

CONTAINER PLANTING:

  • Select a location that receives AT LEAST 6 hours of FULL SUN
  • Select a large container (half whiskey barrel size) with proper drainage holes
  • Remove the rose from the plastic container and plant using a good potting soil
  • Water deeply every day for two weeks to establish strong roots
  • Fertilize after rose is established
Please note: Container roses will need more frequent fertilization and watering than will those planted in the ground and will be more prone to freezing. Please protect your container roses from excessive wind and low temperatures.

FERTILIZER:

Most commercial rose foods and organic fertilizers give good results if directions are followed carefully. Most importantly, fertilizers must be watered in thoroughly after application, both to dissolve the fertilizer into a form the rose can use and to clean any residue off of surrounding foliage. As an alternative to fertilizer, we recommend adding compost to the soil. For more information look here and for recommended products look here.

WATERING:

The key to establishing your roses and performing their best is deep watering. To achieve this, soak your roses every 5 to 7 days when conditions are dry, (including winter months when temperatures are above freezing) by using a soaker hose or some form of drip irrigation. Doing so will encourage a deeply rooted and strong root system that will sustain your rose during the summer months. It also minimizes water waste through evaporation and discourages disease by keeping leaves dry.

MULCHING:

A thick 2 to 3 inches layer of mulch applied one to two times a year means fewer weeds, less water evaporation, less heat stress, richer soil, and healthier plants. Bark mulch is ideal, but pine needles, leaf mulch or any weed free material will do. As organic matter decomposes it will, over time, add nutrients to the soil, aid in promoting the activity of beneficial soil organisms, help buffer high or low pH, improve moisture content, and stabilize soil temperature.

PRUNING AND TRAINING:

To keep roses in proper scale with your garden, an aggressive shearing with hedge clippers is sometimes warranted. Roses are rather forgiving and can be reduced by 50% or more. If necessary, pruning is best done prior to the onset of new growth (typically mid February and early September for zones 8-9 while zones 6-7 may prune in early March and late August.) Climbing roses are best pruned after it is finished blooming as they bloom on old growth. They need only dead or unwanted canes removed. It is sometimes more advantageous to remove old canes to encourage more productive growth. If a climber is getting too big and bushy, it is best to thin it and train it accordingly. Proper training is best done by wrapping canes on a diagonal plane. This will encourage additional auxiliary buds to break along the cane producing thicker, lusher coverage.

INSECTS AND DISEASES:

Blackspot and mildew are common in some roses and climates, it does not have to be detrimental to the rose. Make sure that your rose is planted in an ideal location, receiving enough sunlight, proper airflow, and encourage a healthy soil environment. Roses, properly situated, should give years of trouble-free beauty. If you choose to spray in order to keep the foliage perfect, we recommend organic fungicide on an “as needed” basis. For a safe and effective way to control most insects and pests you can use insecticidal soap or neem oil. Spider mites can be controlled by a very vigorous hosing of the leaves with water and by thoroughly spraying both surfaces of the leaves afterwards with insecticidal soap. We only recommend using chemical insecticides in cases of very severe infestations that might result in the loss of the rose.

WINTER PROTECTION:

If temperatures fall below 28 degrees, young, unestablished roses will need protection. We recommend insulating the plants with soil, mulch or rose cones. Established roses (those that have been in the ground for over a year) which are properly zoned for your area need only be mulched well at the base of the bush and adequately watered for winter care. A seaweed fertilizer can offer extra protection for roses in extreme temperatures.